Lona was in the ocean for ever. At first I was concerned about how far out she was but it took me going out there to be comfortable with her distance. She said her feet went numb because of the cold and she rode wave after wave. John and I took turns going out but it was too cold to stay out there as long as Lona did.
We've run into this guy everytime we come here. He unloads his surf board and attaches a strap onto it. Getting dressed in his wet suit at the parking lot, he slathers on the sunscreen on his face and with his cane, he makes his way down to the beach. I can't remember when he said that he first started to surf but I think he's in his seventies. I can't surf now but the thought of being able to jump onto a board as it is moving at seventy is beyond me. I look for him every year.
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